A Datapad case are a great way to spark some magic on your trip to Batuu, at the Galaxy’s Edge, or aboard the Halcyon, aka the Galactic Starcruiser aka the Star Wars Hotel. I’ve been carrying mine a while on-world and it has sparked conversations and magic!
I have been making dozens of these for my customers over at shop.amrodsarmory.com and I love the process! Each layer builds on the previous so that you end up with something that looks like it has been USED for years.
First things first, what is the make and model of your device? I started with the iPhone 11 Pro Max and upgraded to the iPhone 13 Pro Max. My first datapad had bits and pieces glued onto the phone case. This meant bits and pieces would pop off randomly. So moved to more of a platform approach for my first commission, The Madeline. Like I said, I’ve made dozens of these for my customers, painting and weathering each of them uniquely. I decided to make the model files available for those of you with your own 3D printer and a desire to make your own datapad case.
Here’s a list of materials/tools needed:
- Phone case for your device
- Printed datapad components
- Super Glue
- Paint
- Graphite powder
- Rub n buff
- On/Off switch
- Led bulb
- 2032 battery holder
- 2032 battery
- Wires
- 220omh resistor
- Solder and soldering iron
- Shirt hanger
You start with a basic phone case. I like to pick these up at Five Below if available, or order something off of Amazon. Something like this, if you have an iPhone 11.
Next, get the STL file for your device at shop.amrodsarmory.com. Print it on your 3D printer. I use 15-20% infill with no supports needed. I get good enough detail on my Prusa i3 MK3S+, so that I don’t need to sand. Especially since we are putting multiple layers of paint on these.
Once you have printed the datapad components from the STL, super glue the platform to the phone case. I like to scuff up the bottom of the print as well as the phone case so that I get good adhesion.
Once the glue has dried, you are going to put down your base coat. This will be important later on when you weather the item. In some cases you’ll be coming down to this color. I usually do a Winter Gray, or a solid metallic chrome, gold, or copper.
If you went the route of Winter Gray or flat or gloss black (all fun colors to use with this next step). Apply a liberal coating of graphite powder. It is amazing what this does to your non-metallic paints. USE GLOVES FOR THIS STEP! Graphite powder is messing to work with. It gets on everything. And I mean EVERYTHING! I will use a paper towel to wipe the graphite powder onto the datapad.
It is important to seal in this wonderful sheen. I use the glossiest clear coat I can get at the local hardware store, but there are a number of products out there to knock off the least amount of sheen. Once that clear coat is dry, I like to apply liquid latex around the datapad. Here I mark the areas that will see the most handling, bumps, scrapes, and scars. Where all those layers above will be removed to take me down to this metallic base.
Now to start applying different colors. For mine, I like blue accents, but for the Madaline it was a light green.
Adding additional accents colors builds upon this base. Now to give it that phone case look again.
Here’s where the fun really begins. I start “gunking” it up with black acrylic brushed on heavy and pulled off with scrunched up paper towel. (For some great examples watch this guy on Youtube)
To continue the “gunk” some burnt sienna and burnt umber loosely mixed and shoved into nooks and crannies. Dry brushed into open areas to show some rusting.
With all of these layers building. I like to use additional coats of clear coat between the colors to knock things down a bit. For these layers I will use one with a matte finish, as opposed to glossy. (But you can play with both and see what you like!) Once everything is dry. It’s time to go back and rub and scratch down through the liquid latex.
From here use the Rub ‘n’ Buff to accentuate those areas; high points, ridges, anywhere you want to add patina and wear or bring some metallic to the scene. Use sparingly as a little goes a loooong way. I like using the pewter on the side of the phone case where the buttons are. It makes it look worn and shiny.
Once you get the aesthetics how you would like them, give it one last clear coat before turning to the electronics.
The LED should have 2 wires extending from the plastic bulb. The longer one is the “positive” and the shorter wire is the “negative”. Remember this as you will need to make sure the circuit you create is connected correctly. Go ahead and solder the resister to the positive wire. Place the LED in the datapad insert and glue the insert and ring into place.
For the wiring, I like to start with the battery holder. Solder up the positive and negative sides and route the wires out through the little holes in the battery compartment. You can get as creative as you like routing the wires around the datapad components. The positive wire should connect up to the resister attached to the positive side of the LED. The negative wire can be attached to one side of the on/off button. Connect the negative side of the LED to the other side of the on/off button. Use more wire if needed. You should now have a completed circuit. Insert a 2032 battery into the battery holder. Press the power button and the light should turn on!
In not, you’ll have to trace all of your connections back to the battery and ensure that the positive part of the battery holder connects to the positive wire of the LED and the negative to the negative.
With any luck, you’ve got the datapad case of your dreams! Enjoy!
(But if things don’t turn out as you hoped…. you can always have me make you one!)
